Czech Nymph Rod

10'  #4, or #5 weight  graphite Czech Nymph rod with bag and aluminum tube  $380

My new offering is a custom built Czech nymphing rod.  Unless you have been living under a rock, you have probably heard of this long rod-short line nymphing technique that is taking the fly fishing world by storm.  Originally conceived by the Polish champion fly fishing team, and refined by the Czechs, this is a technique where long rods with sensitive tips are used to drift and drag a “brace” of weighted nymphs through trout runs. 


The technique requires little traditional casting; instead, the flies are flipped upstream of trout lies and the long rod length is used to guide the nymphs, one along the bottom, and two others at various depths in the water column through the run.  With that need in mind, rod designers at Pacific Bay have developed a 10 foot, 4 piece rod blank in their new QuickLine series that is light, fast, and responsive to the requirements of Czech nymphing.  The fast taper and flexible tip of these rods enables a very quick response to strikes. 


These blanks are manufactured in China to Pacific Bay's strict specifications.  They are well-made and well-finished hard glossy black blanks.


My Czech nymph build is designed to be light, sturdy, and comfortable to use.  I combine a light UL-3 reel seat with a 7.5” Garrison-style cork grip.  Garrison designed a fat, almost straight-tapered grip that enables the user to position their hand anywhere along the grip’s length for comfort and balance.  Garrison also made the grip about an inch in diameter because he found that a thicker grip was less tiresome to hold. 

Studies have shown that thin grips must be held tighter by the angler and that means fatigue and cramped fingers.  Most factory-made Czech nymph rods feature an elongated reversed wells grip.  The problem with these grips is that you cannot comfortably move your hand up or down to balance the rod as conditions change.  In contrast, a Garrison grip is designed to allow you to move your hand to find the most comfortable location for yourself.

Beginning my build: Seat, grip and cork before gluing.

The reel seat has been glued to the blank and positioned so that when the butt cap is glued in place, all rod sections will be the same length.  The masking tape protects the reel seat from epoxy run outs, and one tape is marked to aline the center of the reel seat with the rod spine. The cork rings have been glued together and reamed to fit on the rod blank.  One cork has been sized to fit over the reel seat hood.


The grip, and reel seat have been glued-up and clamped together for a tight fit.


This is the total assembly that has just been removed from the cork lathe.  The grip has been turned to proper shape and diameter.  Masking tape is used to protect the reel seat and blank from damage during the turning work.


The grip has been turned, and I am ready to apply the butt cap.

After several days, I have been able to get back to this build and epoxy the butt cap in place:

Now the rod is ready for the wrapping stand.  I don't use a power wrapper to wind my guides so the process takes a little while.  A ten feet rod requires 11 guides and when you add 4 ferrule wraps, tipping on the first stripper, hook keeper and butt wraps it takes a few hours, but the results are outstanding.

Here are the finished wraps that are now ready for the first of 2 coats of epoxy finish.  Note the old gold tipping that I use on the ferrule wraps and the first stripper wraps.  It helps to find the ferrules for take-down, and the stripper when you are reaching for the end of the line you just dropped at twilight!  These wraps need to look good, and also be functional.


 After the first coat of Threadmaster epoxy, I attach my brand to the rod.  It is a waterslide decal with a white background overprinted with black ink.  The letters are white and very crisp:

Here I have rolled the rod slightly to show the bottom of the label giving rod specifications:

The decal is coated with a layer of the epoxy and it becomes a permanent label on the rod.

After a second coat of epoxy, here is the rod removed from the turner with the cork protector still on:

The tiptop and male ferrules:

And the butt cap and female ferrules.  The female ferrules must be wrapped to prevent splitting. 

This type of ferrule requires a separate mandrel to make each section, but the result is a rod that is flexible and smooth casting.  There would be practically no difference in casting properties between a two piece or four piece version of this rod, and the manufacturer offers only a four piece version.

The entire rod completed and ready to be matched with it's bag and tube:

The complete ensamble including rod, bag and aluminum tube:

Thanks for viewing.